Oud is one of those notes that you either love or hate. There seems to be no in-between. It is one of, if not the most common scents used in Middle-Eastern fragrances, and it has recently even been gaining popularity in western fragrances. For the past seven days, I have worn a different oud-based scent to see how different compositions are effected by the presence of oud. The perfumes I wore were all Middle-Eastern fragrances, and therefore, no western scents were considered for this post.
But before I get into my findings...
What even is oud?
Oud, also known as agarwood, is an oil extracted from the agar tree. This tree is exclusive to areas in Southeast Asia, India, and Bangladesh hence why it is a much more common eastern scent. Oud is itself a very pungent note; one that can either be enhanced or ruined depending on what else is in a particular composition. If you would like to learn more about oud, check this blog post out.
When I was starting out, I had no idea what oud was. Influencers tossed the word around like it was some secret, mythological scent. While it is rare and can be costly, it basically just has an exotic earthy smell. It's definitely more raw than other eastern woods like sandalwood, but because it's harder to find, and more costly in a lot of cases, if you can successfully wear an oud-based fragrance you will be the cynosure of everyone's attention.
Obviously, there are many different oud-based scents, but for this post, I chose seven specific fragrances. These fragrances seemed to have the most potential for a post like this, and their compositions are all pretty different. While most of the fragrances have spices like saffron, they each have a unique component to them that really works in some cases and really doesn't in others.
The fragrances I used for this experiment were: Swiss Arabian Shagoff Oud, Swiss Arabian Shagoff Oud Abyad, Swiss Arabian Nawaf, Ard Al Zaafaran Oud 24 Hours, Khalis Oud Afgano, Swiss Arabian Mutameyez, and Swiss Arabian Khateer.
Which ones preformed the best and which ones do I think you should pass on? Let's find out:
Day 1: Shagoff Oud (Swiss Arabian)
I wanted to start the week off with something familiar. I actually recommened Shagoff Oud in my Designer V. Niche post and for good reason. The oud in this composition is mellow. It's definitely not the most noticeable scent in the composition which makes Shagoff Oud a great introductory fragrance into oud-based scents.
This one has saffron as the top note, rose and oud in the middle, and praline, vanilla, and oud at the bottom. As you can see, this is a very simple oud-based scent with a floral component from the rose and a gourmand touch from the praline and vanilla.
At first when you apply this one, you're going to get a sharp blast of saffron which can be a bit cloying. This initial phase only lasts for 30 minutes. It then transitions into a more floral/earthy fragrance with the combination of oud and rose. Finally, after a couple of hours it becomes very sweet with the combination of praline and vanilla, which I have to say, has become one of my favorites.
I initially used 8 sprays of this fragrance around 10am and it lasted really well until around 2pm, at which time I applied an additional 4 sprays which extended the life of the fragrance for another 2 hours for a total of 6 hours. It only really projected for the first hour after application when the saffron note was most prominent. After that, it became a much more subtle, skin-scent. Another reason I would recommend this one as an introductory oud scent is because it's very refined. It's definitely not a club fragrance.
Overall, I would give this one an 8.5/10. While the performance is slightly less than what I would want in a fragrance, the scent is very nice. It's a great first oud-based scent because the oud in this one isn't overpowering like it is in some of the other ones
And for $60, you really can't go wrong! I would definitely recommend this one.
Day 2: Shagoff Oud Abyad (Swiss Arabian)
I figured on day 2 I would use one of the flankers of Shagoff Oud. Now, I've had this one for a while but never wore it much, and after day 2, I could understand why. Shagoff Oud Abyad is only Shagoff Oud in name; it is completely different in terms of scent and performance.
The notes in this one are intriguing to say the least. We have bergamot, oregano, pimento berry oil at the top, amber, citrus fruit, frankincense, myrrh, and opopanax in the middle, and agarwaood smoke, leather, patchouli, and sandalwood at the bottom.
I haven't even heard of some of these notes, so I was very excited to try it. The scent is very smokey with a bit of citrus. It's interesting but still pretty nice. The performance is where this one fails though. I used 8 sprays around 10am, and it lasted until 12pm, at which time I applied an additional 4 sprays which lasted another hour. So in total, Abyad only lasted 3 hours! Oh and you might have noticed I forgot to mention projection. Well, that's because it didn't project at all!
Overall, I would say that this fragrance smells pretty good, but considering its lackluster performance, I would give it a 2/10. For the same price as the original Shagoff Oud, I would definitely pass on this flanker.
Day 3: Nawaf (Swiss Arabian)
After a disappointing Day 2, I wanted to try my newest SA fragrance. Honestly, I hadn't worn this one much prior to this experiment, so I really didn't know what to expect from it. This one is interesting because it might be the only fragrance I used which has agarwood as a top note. As you can imagine, because oud is literally the first note in Nawaf's composition, it is a very heavy oud-based scent.
Despite its heaviness, Nawaf is a relatively simple composition. We have agarwood and saffron as the top notes, amber, musk, and sandalwood in the middle, and leather and tobacco leaf at the bottom. Unlike Shagoff Oud, which opens with a very spicy blast of saffron, Nawaf opens with a raw earthy smell with some spice. The initial phase of this one definitely won't be for everyone.
After twenty minutes or so, the leather note becomes much more prominent. The oud never completely vanishes, but it definitely becomes less detectible as the fragrance persists. It even becomes a bit sweet towards the end.
Performance-wise, Nawaf is pretty good. I initially applied 8 sprays at 10am, and it lasted for 4.5 hours projecting rather nicely for the first hour and a half while the oud is predominant. I used another 4 sprays at 2:35pm which lasted until 5:30pm for a total of 6.5 hours.
Overall, I would give Nawaf a 9/10. The scent is one of the most unique used in this experiment, and its performance is pretty good. For the price of $60, this one is definitely worth getting, but only if you like earthy/woodsy notes. If you don't you probably won't like the opening at all.
Day 4: Oud 24 Hours (Ard Al Zaafaran)
On day 4, I decided to try a different company. I've had Oud 24 Hours now for several months, but I've never really given it much of a shot. Well, let me tell you, after using it for this post, it's definitely going to be worn more frequently. It has a very nice chocolate/citrus vibe to it, and it performs pretty nicely. The best part is that a 100ml bottle only costs $30 making this the cheapest fragrance used in this experiment.
At the top of the composition, we have a really nice amalgamation of bergamot, orange, and dark chocolate. In the middle, we have spicy notes, fruity notes, and jasmine. And at the bottom we have agarwood, patchouli, sandalwood, incense, and amber. So this one is a gourmand scent mixed with spicy/earthy notes. It's really quite nice, and again for the price, it's hard to beat.
Initially when I apply this I get a strong burst of citrus, almost reminiscent of orange Pez candy. After a few moments it dries down into a sweet citrus and chocolate blend. As the fragrance persists it transitions to a slightly peppery, woodsy scent which is still rather enjoyable. I think in terms of uniqueness, Oud 24 Hours is one of the best I used.
Now, despite being called Oud 24 Hours, it does not last too too long. I got a good 7 hours when used which is pretty good longevity tough. It only projects for the first 1.5 hours, but considering citrus scents tend not to last very long, an hour and a half projection is really good.
Overall, this one gets a 9.5/10. I would definitely recommend you check this one out, although it may be a bit more difficult to find than SA fragrances.
Day 5: Oud Afgano (Khalis)
On Day 5 I figured I would use the only other fragrance on this list that isn't from Swiss Arabian. Oud Afgano is akin to Shagoff Oud Abyad in terms of performance. The scent is definetly pleasant,with notes of tobacco, sandalwood and agarwood, but the performance is underwhelming. Not to mention the sprayer on this bottle is so weak. It probably sprays half the amount of liquid that the other ones do.
I only got about 4 hours while wearing Oud Afgano, and that was with two times the numbers of sprays. It projected for about thirty minutes at which time it turned into a skin scent.
Overall, I would give this a 4.5/10. It definitely performs better than Abyad, but it's still nothing special. It only costs $30 though, so if you're looking for a new at-home scent Oud Afgano might be nice, but if not, I would pass on it.
Day 6: Mutameyez (Swiss Arabian)
On Day 6 I went back to using a fragrance by SA. Mutameyez was definitely the pinnacle of this experiment. This is indubitably my favorite oud-based fragrance. It is so good, so fresh. Just like the top notes in Oud 24 Hours are really captivating, the combination of orange and pine is nothing short of amazing.
It is a well-rounded composition with citrus, spice, and wood. At the top, we get an amazing mixture of orange and pine, in the middle we have clove, cardamom, cedarwood, and cashmere wood, and at the bottom we have vetiver, agarwood, amber and musk. As you might remember from my guide to finding your signature scent, I absolutely love cedarwood, so anytime I see that note in a fragrance I know I'm going to enjoy it.
Mutameyez smells like you're taking a walk through the forest holding a basket of oranges. The pine is so strong and the citrus note compliments it very nicely. After an hour or so you really start to detect the cedarwood and cashmere wood. Much like Shagoff Oud, the agarwood is not a main player in the composition, which makes this an easier oud-based fragrance to wear.
Not only is the scent breathtaking, but Mutameyez performed better than any other fragrance on this list. It lasted for nine hours and projected nicely for the first hour and a half. And the best part is that a 100ml bottle only costs $35. $35! This fragrance not only out preformed everything else on this list, but it costs 50% less than most other compositions.
Overall, I would give this one a solid 10/10. The only foible for this one is that the cap can be a pain to put back on, but with everything else considered, why would that matter?
Day 7: Khateer (Swiss Arabian)
On the final day of this experiment, I went with something I was really excited to try out. The composition of Khateer was as intriguing as Shagoff Oud Abyad, so I actually had a good feeling about wearing it (in retrospect, I'm not sure why). At the top of this one, we have mint and amber, in the middle, there's pepper, vetiver, and rose, and at the bottom, there's vanilla, oak moss, and oud.
Note: I realized about a week later after I bought Trump Empire, a fragrance I will be reviewing at a later time, the combination that doesn't work in Khateer is the mint and amber. Empire uses the same combination, but uses it with other fruity notes, which result in a more pleasant experience.
The performance was pretty decent, lasting 4.5 hours, and after an hour the scent becomes somewhat sweet and pleasant. Considering this one costs $50, I just don't think it's worth it.
In fact, I really don't see myself using this one again. I might just give it away, honestly.
Overall, I would give Khateer a 4/10, solely because it has decent performance.
Conclusion:
Using a different oud-based fragrance for a week was a lot of fun. It caused me to really appreciate some compositions that I've had for awhile and it made me aware of which oud-based combinations work well and which ones don't.
There are obviously myriads of other oud fragrances that were not considered for this post. I would definitely consider doing a future post trying out different compositions. Perhaps even other fragrance types other than oud. Let me know what you think. Send me an email at tnpersona@gmail.com.
-Ryan S.










